What if I told you there is a place where, from the moment you arrive, everyone welcomes you with a warm smile and open arms? Where the air is filled with the perfume of bougainvillea, charming countryside farmhouses hide around every bend and long dirt roads lead to phenomenal restaurants in which, when you walk through the doors, you are greeted like family.
Parma is not a big city filled with iconic tourist attractions drawing visitors from all over the world. It is a small town. The streets are filled with the real people who live there, just going about their days. But for a dietitian and foodie like me, what Parma does offer might be even more exciting than world renowned churches, museums and works of art. Parma is the home of such wonders of the culinary world as Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, Prosciutto di Parma and, the stuff of dreams, torta fritta (we’ll get there).
Parma is not a big city filled with iconic tourist attractions drawing visitors from all over the world. It is a small town. The streets are filled with the real people who live there, just going about their days. But for a dietitian and foodie like me, what Parma does offer might be even more exciting than world renowned churches, museums and works of art. Parma is the home of such wonders of the culinary world as Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, Prosciutto di Parma and, the stuff of dreams, torta fritta (we’ll get there).
Our long weekend in Parma, last month, can be summarized like this: eat, drink, bike, sleep, repeat. We chose an apartment rental that was a 25-minute walk from the city center, with outdoor space and bicycles available for guests. Best decision ever. With all the delicious food we were about to consume, we were going to be in serious need of exercise! Our time in Parma can also be summarized like this: endless pleasure and unwavering generosity. Every person who welcomed us made us feel they’d been waiting just for us and were so thrilled that we’d finally arrived.
The first thing we did in Parma was to hop onto our bikes and ride off into the sunny, flower-filled countryside to I Tri Siochett (Strada Farnese, 74/a, 43125 Parma). We were the first to arrive and thought we might be getting the tourist treatment when we found ourselves convinced to start our meal with both a platter of prosciutto di parma and a bowl of torta fritta, small pouches of perfectly fried dough. As the place filled with locals, especially regulars, we got our first hint (of many to follow) that this is just how meals are done in Parma. No one seemed to be celebrating a special occasion but every table was quickly covered in a huge spread that began with the addicting torta fritta—you can never eat just one—and prosciutto. Our melanzane alla parmigiana (eggplant, or aubergine, parmesan) and special truffle tagliatelle were absolutely delicious but I had my eye on what appeared to be a bowl of dumplings in chicken broth being enjoyed by the 3-year-old at the table next to me.
Prosciutto di Parma and torta fritta at I Tri Siochett
One of the culinary specialties of Parma, and the greater Emilia-Romagna region, is stuffed pastas. Among those, a classic recipe is the tortelli di zucca (pumpkin ravioli). The tastiest version I tried was at Trattoria die Corrieri (Str. Conservatorio, 1, 43100 Parma), where the pumpkin filling was accented with warm spices.
 | The next day, a short car-ride just out of Parma brought us to the Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant, Romani (Strada Dei Ronchi, 2 - Vicomero, 43030 Torrile). Seemingly located in the middle of nowhere, Romani occupies a large farmhouse that opens up in a number of directions, to unveil several dining rooms, a courtyard, a patio and back garden, all filled with antiques and old photographs. We know because when the host saw us admiring the bric-a-brac, he lit up and set to taking us on a tour of the place. |
| Don’t skip the buffet antipasti, where you can return again and again until you’ve had your fill of beautifully and delicately prepared starters. After the excitement of the start of the meal, I decided to keep it simple and take my inspiration from the toddler I’d spotted the day before. I got my own bowl of agnolini in brodo. It doesn’t get any more comforting than this dish of stuffed pasta in chicken broth. |  |
We spent that afternoon riding bikes, first through the country, stopping only for espresso, and then to the market to pick up ingredients for that evening’s dinner. At Mercato della Ghiaia (Piazza Ghiaia, 43121 Parma) we collected prosciutto, parmigiana, bread and wine—you know, the basics. This enormous bi-level gourmet market has everything you need for a proper Italian feast. On our way back to the apartment we stopped at a small bar-cum-deli to pick up some torta fritta. As our order was being prepared, I noticed the owner wrapping up some prosciutto. I was the only one inside the store and had a feeling where this was going. Sure enough, the gentleman called me over and told me that, while I hadn’t ordered it, he packed up some prosciutto for me because torta fritta simply cannot be enjoyed without prosciutto. He instructed me to tear open each little pocket of dough and stuff a piece of prosciutto inside. He then walked me over to a wall of candies, selected two wrapped chocolates, handed them to me and gave me a tip that I should do the same with the chocolate, while the torta fritta were still warm! I marveled at his kindness and excitement.
The next day we arrived early, on bicycle, at Trattoria Ai Due Platani (Strada Budellungo, 104/a, Coloreto, Parma), also a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant. The manager came out to the front courtyard to shake our hands, chat with us about our holiday in Italy and our move to London, and assure us that the restaurant would be open very soon. After the requisite torta fritta and Prosciutto di Parma, we enjoyed risotto and ravioli di cognilio (rabbit ravioli). As all over Parma, the ravioli here was delicate and tender and so fresh tasting it appeared to have been made moments before. But the real excitement came at the end of the meal when a gentleman wheeled over a cart that held a comically large bowl of homemade gelato. He skipped the completely unnecessary first question and jumped straight into “We have hot fudge and fresh strawberries. Which will it be?” A man after my own heart.
Ravioli di Coniglio at Trattoria Ai Due Platani
At each restaurant we visited in and around Parma, we experienced impeccable service and the Italian tradition of lingering over long meals. A few times we noticed entire parties stepping away from a table for 10-20 minutes at a time, leaving all their belongings behind. Turns out, this is not so uncommon in a city (really, country) where you might spend 3 hours slowly enjoying a meal.
Truffle tagliatelle at I Tri Siochett
Tabarro wine bar
Tabarro (Str. Luigi Carlo Farini, 5/b, 43100 Parma), a compact wine bar offering an extensive and interesting wine menu, is a neighborhood gem and a perfect spot for pre- or post-dinner drinks. Cheeses and charcuterie platters are available if you’re looking for a snack. Most folks hang out at large wine barrels out front but upstairs is a cozy, romantic space for chatting.
Tabarro wine bar
When we weren’t eating or drinking wine in Parma, we were riding bikes. The countryside was completely draped in colorful and fragrant bougainvillea and wisteria and seemingly endless fields. Often we felt like the only ones around.
If we took a break from bike riding it was usually to have an espresso. Early on in our trip, I had read that, in Parma, “milky” coffee drinks are reserved for breakfast time; thereafter, espresso is the popular choice. I looked around and suddenly saw it: everyone really seemed to be exclusively drinking espresso! Why not give it a go? A moment doesn’t usually seem like enough time to wind down and yet, somehow, an espresso can be all it takes to feel refreshed and recharged. I think because the commitment isn’t more than a few minutes, we are able to completely stop what we are doing and just breathe and enjoy life. I’m a convert. I’ve entered into a lifelong relationship with espresso.
If you travel to Parma and stay near Bar Paninoteca Navetta (Via Navetta, 2, 43125 Parma), I recommend stopping there before your return flight home.A popular spot with the locals, we found a number of bicycles pulled over in front of this café and bar each morning. Before Before leaving Parma we sat here for coffees and pastries, and to pick up tramezzini (small triangular finger sandwiches) for the plane.
Quick Guide
- Dine with locals I Tri Siochett (Strada Farnese, 74/a, 43125 Parma)
- Pumpkin ravioli Trattoria die Corrieri (Str. Conservatorio, 1, 43100 Parma)
- Farmhouse dining Romani (Strada Dei Ronchi, 2 - Vicomero, 43030 Torrile)*
- Gourmet market Mercato della Ghiaia (Piazza Ghiaia, 43121 Parma)
- Gelato grand finale Trattoria Ai Due Platani (Strada Budellungo, 104/a, Coloreto, Parma)*
- Wine bar Tabarro (Str. Luigi Carlo Farini, 5/b, 43100 Parma)
- Popular café with locals Bar Paninoteca Navetta (Via Navetta, 2, 43125 Parma)
*Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand
