In the 15 years that my husband and I have been traveling together, since our month-long European backpacking adventure after our college graduation, Spain had always remained the elusive destination that we both kept high on our wish lists. I don’t know why it took us so long to get there. I suppose it’s because, like many travelers do, we try to keep an element of practicality to our travel choices: The flights to this place are cheap! The dollar is strong in that place! We can stay with friends here! I guess Spain was just never that easy for us to get to. Until we moved to London. Suddenly, Spain was only a couple hours away by plane and flights could be had for real cheap on small, budget airlines. So, this year, we both chose to celebrate our birthdays in Spain. My husband had always dreamed of visiting the Basque country, an autonomous community that comprises several major cities and which, with its own culture and language, truly feels like a country separate from the rest of Spain. For me, Barcelona was the dream; specifically, anything and everything Gaudí-related. I’ll cover the former in this blog post (part 1) and the latter in the next (part 2).
Basque Country is situated in Northern Spain and the larger Basque cultural region even crosses over into France. We visited during the month of July, with plans to explore Bilbao, San Sebastián and their surrounding areas.
PINTXOS AND SUN IN SAN SEBASTIÁN
San Sebastián offers a couple sights but is mostly for ducking into bars and scarfing down pintxos between sunbathing sessions, especially in and around the Old Town. Unfortunately, being pregnant, I quickly tired of the heat (especially on the days that reached 96˚F/36˚C) and bar food but I still came away with some favorites.
 Bar Ganbara | Best Pintxos Pintxos are finger foods, little sandwiches and small plates and they are typically presented on platters spread out all over a bar. You serve yourself, or point at what you want. Payment is typically by the plate or via a simplified pricing system in which the bar or restaurant assigns one of only 2 or 3 price points to each of their offerings, making it easy to add up your bill once you’ve had your fill. If you’ve had tapas, you’ve had something similar but probably not in the generous portion sizes you’ll find in San Sebastián. Even at breakfast time, San Sebastián is all about the pintxos, often including many of the same ingredients you’ll find later in the day (jamón Ibérico, tuna salad, potatoes, octopus). You’ll also find a few more pintxos made with eggs. |
Our favorite of all the pintxo bars is Bar Ganbara (San Jeronimo Kalea, 19, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa), which not only has the best food (IMHO) but also is a little cleaner, calmer and more polished than the others while still offering the genuine experience. When we went, there were only 4 seats so get there early if you don’t want to belly up to the bar; although, for most people I think that’s part of the fun.
Fine basque dining
Bogedón Alejandro (Calle de Fermín Calbetón, 4, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastián, Guipúzcoa) combines high quality Basque cuisine with excellent service in a quiet setting.
Bogedón Alejandro (Calle de Fermín Calbetón, 4, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastián, Guipúzcoa) combines high quality Basque cuisine with excellent service in a quiet setting.
We ate so many croquetas in Spain but my favorite were these minis at Bogedón Alejandro.
Hipster café
Kafe Botanika (Gernikako Arbola Pasealekua, 8, 20006 Donostia, Gipuzkoa) is a café and juice bar with a hipster vibe and a garden. It’s a nice little spot for enjoying a light breakfast or lunch; e.g., salads, hummus, falafel, yogurts, toasts, etc.
Kafe Botanika (Gernikako Arbola Pasealekua, 8, 20006 Donostia, Gipuzkoa) is a café and juice bar with a hipster vibe and a garden. It’s a nice little spot for enjoying a light breakfast or lunch; e.g., salads, hummus, falafel, yogurts, toasts, etc.
Kafe Botanika
Kafe Botanika
Late night treat
Santa Lucía Chocolateria (Portu Kalea, 6, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa) is the spot for churros con chocolate after a night of pintxos and bar-hopping in San Sebastian. It has a casual, cafeteria-like feel and is open until 11pm on Saturday nights and 9pm every other night.
Santa Lucía Chocolateria (Portu Kalea, 6, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa) is the spot for churros con chocolate after a night of pintxos and bar-hopping in San Sebastian. It has a casual, cafeteria-like feel and is open until 11pm on Saturday nights and 9pm every other night.
Churros con chocolate at Santa Lucía Chocolateria.
Michelin starred dining
Located on a waterside cliff, in a warm wood and glass setting, with a beautiful view of the Bay of Biscay, Akelaŕe (Padre Orkolaga Ibilbidea, 56, 20008 Donostia, Gipuzkoa) holds 3 Michelin stars and offers 3 tasting menus: a classic menu featuring time-tested fan-favorites and two more modern, experimental menus. There are also a la carte options.
Located on a waterside cliff, in a warm wood and glass setting, with a beautiful view of the Bay of Biscay, Akelaŕe (Padre Orkolaga Ibilbidea, 56, 20008 Donostia, Gipuzkoa) holds 3 Michelin stars and offers 3 tasting menus: a classic menu featuring time-tested fan-favorites and two more modern, experimental menus. There are also a la carte options.
Akelaŕe
SIDE TRIPS FROM SAN SEBASTIÁN
San Sebastián and Bilbao are both great bases from which to make side trips.
Pasajes de San Juan
Not far from San Sebastián is a beautiful fishing village with colorful old buildings tucked into the cliff-side. To reach Pasajes de San Juan, aka Pasaia Donibane, take the A2 (red line) bus from Oquendo Street, then walk along the harbor to the launch platform. We could not have chosen a more perfect setting for spending my husband’s actual birthday. Our only regret was that we didn’t bring bathing suits as there was a great little spot for cooling off with a dip. Instead, while waiting for our lunch reservation, we took a walk, which became a scramble, to a lighthouse.
Not far from San Sebastián is a beautiful fishing village with colorful old buildings tucked into the cliff-side. To reach Pasajes de San Juan, aka Pasaia Donibane, take the A2 (red line) bus from Oquendo Street, then walk along the harbor to the launch platform. We could not have chosen a more perfect setting for spending my husband’s actual birthday. Our only regret was that we didn’t bring bathing suits as there was a great little spot for cooling off with a dip. Instead, while waiting for our lunch reservation, we took a walk, which became a scramble, to a lighthouse.
 Pasaia Donibane |  |
We ate at Casa Camara (San Juan Kalea, 79, 20110 Pasai Donibane, Gipuzkoa), where we enjoyed the most fresh, delicious seafood served by the sweetest family. In the center of the room is a live lobster tank, in which the water rises and falls with the tide and which causes a big fun scene each time it’s lifted up into the room so someone can pick their lobster. After lunch, we found ourselves making an impromptu hike back to San Sebastian, along the cliff walk leading to Mount Ulia and Playa la Zurriola (take the launch back across the water first). It was hot and probably too much for me to be doing pregnant and in sandals but I’m still glad we did it.
My husband took advantage of every opportunity for pulpo (octopus). Note the Spanish paprika!
The view at the end of our long hike back to Playa la Zurriola.
Getaria
In Getaria, a short bus ride away, we visited the Balenciaga museum, where we were both pleasantly surprised to find that we learned quite a lot about fashion history as well as the design and technology involved in fashion. We ate lunch at Kaia Kaipe (General Arnao Kalea, 4, 20808 Getaria, Gipuzkoa), which offers high quality dining and fresh ingredients. We sat upstairs in an air-conditioned dining room, with a view of the water, but there is outside seating as well. this is where we sat upstairs in the back in the heat).
In Getaria, a short bus ride away, we visited the Balenciaga museum, where we were both pleasantly surprised to find that we learned quite a lot about fashion history as well as the design and technology involved in fashion. We ate lunch at Kaia Kaipe (General Arnao Kalea, 4, 20808 Getaria, Gipuzkoa), which offers high quality dining and fresh ingredients. We sat upstairs in an air-conditioned dining room, with a view of the water, but there is outside seating as well. this is where we sat upstairs in the back in the heat).
BILBAO
Here are some of my favorite eateries in Bilbao.
Bars & Cafes
Copper Deli (Mazarredo Zumarkalea, 6, 48001 Bilbo, Bizkaia) is a nice place for sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian and vegan options, plus coffee, juices, beer and wine.
I think we went to Bihotz (Arechaga Kalea, 6, 48003 Bilbo, Bizkaia) at least once a day (or night) during our stay in Bilbao. My husband loved the craft beer selection, I loved the sandwiches and snacks, and we both enjoyed the casual vibe, local crowd and chill, friendly staff.
Copper Deli (Mazarredo Zumarkalea, 6, 48001 Bilbo, Bizkaia) is a nice place for sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian and vegan options, plus coffee, juices, beer and wine.
I think we went to Bihotz (Arechaga Kalea, 6, 48003 Bilbo, Bizkaia) at least once a day (or night) during our stay in Bilbao. My husband loved the craft beer selection, I loved the sandwiches and snacks, and we both enjoyed the casual vibe, local crowd and chill, friendly staff.
Bihotz, the cafe and craft beer bar where we hung out almost daily.
Pintxos & Picnics
El Globo (Diputazio Kalea, 8, 48008 Bilbo, Bizkaia) is loud and crowded. The food is delicious and fun and exactly what you expect from a pintxos bar. It’s clearly a popular spot so be prepared to get in there and enjoy your sandwiches and croquetas in close proximity to the other patrons. You’ll often find a crowd gathered outside chatting and sipping beers.
El Globo (Diputazio Kalea, 8, 48008 Bilbo, Bizkaia) is loud and crowded. The food is delicious and fun and exactly what you expect from a pintxos bar. It’s clearly a popular spot so be prepared to get in there and enjoy your sandwiches and croquetas in close proximity to the other patrons. You’ll often find a crowd gathered outside chatting and sipping beers.
Mercado de la Ribera (Erribera Kalea, s/n, 48005 Bilbo, Bizkaia) is a market where you can purchase picnic items and groceries from various fresh food vendors or pintxos from a bar, which you can have in or enjoy at an outdoor table.
Mercado de la Ribera
Restaurant scene
Bascook (Barroeta Aldamar Kalea, 8, 48001 Bilbo, Bizkaia) offers inventive food (think a Basque base with lots of international twists) in a hip setting (a dimly lit former salt warehouse) and a slew of vegetarian options.
Bascook (Barroeta Aldamar Kalea, 8, 48001 Bilbo, Bizkaia) offers inventive food (think a Basque base with lots of international twists) in a hip setting (a dimly lit former salt warehouse) and a slew of vegetarian options.
Gnocchi with tofu, cashews, pesto at Bascook.
SIDE TRIPS FROM BILBAO
Guernica
In Guernica, we were moved by a visit to the Museo de la Paz (Plaza de Foru, 1, 48300 Gernika-Lumo, Vizcaya), where we learned about the bombing of Guernica, Basque history and the fight for Basque independence. We also visitied the oak tree at the Parliament building. For lunch, we joined the locals—often older men dining solo—at Zallo Barri (Juan Calzada Kalea, 79, 48300 Gernika-Lumo, Bizkaia), where the menu del día offered one of the best values on home cooking we’ve ever encountered anywhere and included 3 courses, wine and bottled water. Swift but thorough service in a very simplified setting.
In Guernica, we were moved by a visit to the Museo de la Paz (Plaza de Foru, 1, 48300 Gernika-Lumo, Vizcaya), where we learned about the bombing of Guernica, Basque history and the fight for Basque independence. We also visitied the oak tree at the Parliament building. For lunch, we joined the locals—often older men dining solo—at Zallo Barri (Juan Calzada Kalea, 79, 48300 Gernika-Lumo, Bizkaia), where the menu del día offered one of the best values on home cooking we’ve ever encountered anywhere and included 3 courses, wine and bottled water. Swift but thorough service in a very simplified setting.
QUICK GUIDE
San Sebastián
- Best pintxos Bar Ganbara (San Jeronimo Kalea, 19, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa)
- Fine basque dining Bogedon Alejandro (Calle de Fermín Calbetón, 4, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastián, Guipúzcoa)
- Hipster café Kafe Botanika (Gernikako Arbola Pasealekua, 8, 20006 Donostia, Gipuzkoa)
- Late night treat Santa Lucía Chocolateria (Portu Kalea, 6, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa)
- Michelin starred dining Akelare (Padre Orkolaga Ibilbidea, 56, 20008 Donostia, Gipuzkoa)
- Lobster tank Casa Camara (San Juan Kalea, 79, 20110 Pasai Donibane, Gipuzkoa)
- Lunch after Balenciaga Kaia Kaipe (General Arnao Kalea, 4, 20808 Getaria, Gipuzkoa)
- Sandwiches & salads Copper Deli (Mazarredo Zumarkalea, 6, 48001 Bilbo, Bizkaia)
- Craft beers Bihotz (Arechaga Kalea, 6, 48003 Bilbo, Bizkaia)
- Popular pintxos El Globo (Diputazio Kalea, 8, 48008 Bilbo, Bizkaia)
- Market (groceries & pintxos) Mercado de la Ribera (Erribera Kalea, s/n, 48005 Bilbo, Bizkaia)
- Hip, international twist on Basque Bascook (Barroeta Aldamar Kalea, 8, 48001 Bilbo, Bizkaia)
- Excellent value menu del día Zallo Barri (Juan Calzada Kalea, 79, 48300 Gernika-Lumo, Bizkaia)
