Wow! I knew the Danish were leaders in design but I was in for a beauteous surprise when I arrived in Denmark and quickly learned that, often, their design-consciousness carries over into the delectable foods found all over Copenhagen and made with pure love.
Each time we sat down to eat in Copenhagen, just one glance down at our plates revealed dishes that were made with a sincere attention to detail. It wasn’t just the focus on locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. It was also having the finest of ingredients on offer, enjoying house-made cheeses and breads (Oh, the bread! The bread was insanely good all over Copenhagen.), and sitting down to the most beautifully presented plates of food — even in casual settings. Each time I found myself with food in front of me, I was hesitant to stick my fork in it because it would mean messing up the beautiful scene before me.
Each time we sat down to eat in Copenhagen, just one glance down at our plates revealed dishes that were made with a sincere attention to detail. It wasn’t just the focus on locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. It was also having the finest of ingredients on offer, enjoying house-made cheeses and breads (Oh, the bread! The bread was insanely good all over Copenhagen.), and sitting down to the most beautifully presented plates of food — even in casual settings. Each time I found myself with food in front of me, I was hesitant to stick my fork in it because it would mean messing up the beautiful scene before me.
Learn from the Best
To be fair, I shouldn’t have been so surprised to find myself so impressed by everything we ate in two short days in Cophenhagen. We had intentionally made it a “Noma weekend.” In 2010, 2011, 2012, and 2014, chef René Redzepi’s Noma (Strandgade 93, 1401 København) was ranked Best Restaurant in the World on Restaurant Magazine’s list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Unsurprisingly, it’s incredibly difficult to get a reservation at a 4-time world’s best restaurant. And once you’ve scored a table, there is a hefty price tag to swallow: 1700 DKK per person (254 USD or 167 GBP). I had read about a number of different restaurants opened by former Noma chefs so we decided to make it an all-Noma weekend (without ever going to Noma). Best idea ever. The skill and passion poured into everything we ate meant that each meal was an exciting experience from start to finish.
To be fair, I shouldn’t have been so surprised to find myself so impressed by everything we ate in two short days in Cophenhagen. We had intentionally made it a “Noma weekend.” In 2010, 2011, 2012, and 2014, chef René Redzepi’s Noma (Strandgade 93, 1401 København) was ranked Best Restaurant in the World on Restaurant Magazine’s list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Unsurprisingly, it’s incredibly difficult to get a reservation at a 4-time world’s best restaurant. And once you’ve scored a table, there is a hefty price tag to swallow: 1700 DKK per person (254 USD or 167 GBP). I had read about a number of different restaurants opened by former Noma chefs so we decided to make it an all-Noma weekend (without ever going to Noma). Best idea ever. The skill and passion poured into everything we ate meant that each meal was an exciting experience from start to finish.
We landed at Kastrup Airport before 9am and I was feeling ravenous, having been up since 4:30 in the morning without anything to eat or drink, other than a juice on the plane. We quickly checked into our hotel and set off for Torvehallerne Market (Frederiksborggade 21, 1360 København K), a collection of more than 60 fine food vendors situated within 2 covered market halls and 1 central courtyard. Open daily, the market has everything from bread, produce, meat and seafood stands, to a number of spots serving prepared foods (think fried fish cakes and smørrebrød, traditional Danish open-faced sandwiches), to a couple bars where you can sit, enjoy a drink and watch market-goers pass.
Our first stop was Coffee Collective (Vendersgade 6D, 1363 København K) (because: 4:30 am!). Coffee Collective is more than just its three coffee shops; it is also a roaster, wholesaler and coffee training program. During our visit, baristas swiftly and cordially handled an endless stream of customers without batting an eye or breaking a sweat. We paired our lattes with a delicious pastry from Laura’s Bakery (Linnésgade u/f 17 1361 København K).
Our first stop was Coffee Collective (Vendersgade 6D, 1363 København K) (because: 4:30 am!). Coffee Collective is more than just its three coffee shops; it is also a roaster, wholesaler and coffee training program. During our visit, baristas swiftly and cordially handled an endless stream of customers without batting an eye or breaking a sweat. We paired our lattes with a delicious pastry from Laura’s Bakery (Linnésgade u/f 17 1361 København K).
Mexican in Denmark? Hell yes.
Once we were done with dessert, we figured we should eat lunch. I have yet to find decent tacos (or any other Mexican food) in London. So, I was thrilled to learn that one Noma alumnus, Rosio Sanchez, is of Mexican descent and uses corn from Oaxaca in the tortillas at her taqueria, Hija de Sanchez (Frederiksborggade 21, 1360 København K). The rest of the ingredients (other than aged chilies from Mexico) are locally sourced. On the day of our visit, tiny Danish fjord shrimp were being served whole and unpeeled, adding crunch to each spicy bite of taco.
Once we were done with dessert, we figured we should eat lunch. I have yet to find decent tacos (or any other Mexican food) in London. So, I was thrilled to learn that one Noma alumnus, Rosio Sanchez, is of Mexican descent and uses corn from Oaxaca in the tortillas at her taqueria, Hija de Sanchez (Frederiksborggade 21, 1360 København K). The rest of the ingredients (other than aged chilies from Mexico) are locally sourced. On the day of our visit, tiny Danish fjord shrimp were being served whole and unpeeled, adding crunch to each spicy bite of taco.
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We spent the afternoon wandering around Christiania (Prinsessegade, 1440 København), a car-free, self-proclaimed autonomous neighborhood (since 1971), whose objective is “to build a self-governing society where every individual is free to express themselves and be responsible to the community.”
Freetown Christiania
That night we enjoyed the 7-course tasting menu (everything served sharing style) at Manfred & Vin (Jægersborggade 40, 2200 København). Co-founders Chef Christian Puglisi and Kim Rossen both spent time at Noma, while the former also worked in the kitchen at the world-famous, history-making El Bulli in Spain. They are also the team behind Michelin starred Relae, super unique pizza restaurant Bæst (more on that later) and proprietary bakery Mirabelle, all in Copenhagen and all certified Gold (90-100% organic) by The Organic Food Brand, a “government controlled organic label for eateries such as child care centers, nursing homes, canteens, restaurants and cafes.” The menu at Manfred & Vin was vegetable heavy with just a little meat and fish to round out the meal. My favorite dishes included the poached egg with cauliflower & crispy bread; charred onions with elderflower & Havgus cheese; and fried summer cabbage with Hollandaise & tarragon.
A dish from the sharing menu at Manfred & Vin
 Enjoying liquid nitrogen ice cream outside Istid | On our way to dinner we happened upon a “liquid nitrogen ice cream” shop and knew we’d have to come back for dessert. The recent opening of Istid (Jægersborggade 13, 2200 København N) was backed via a Kickstarter campaign and liquid nitrogen ice cream is exactly what it sounds like. If you find yourself in Copenhagen, seek out this shop so you too can giggle with anticipation when the fog rises up from the stand mixer each time a new batch is made. I highly recommend the salty caramel topped with chocolate fudge sauce and almond crunch with rosemary and sea salt. |
All fueled up, we headed for Tivoli Gardens (Vesterbrogade 3, 1630 København) after dark because I’d heard that’s when the adults show up to just hang out and drink among the twinkling lights of the amusement park. Open since 1843, Tivoli is said to have been one of Walt Disney’s inspirations for Disneyland. That night, there was an amazing jazz concert on the main stage. The crowd of folks swing dancing was as entertaining as tunes like Duke Ellington Orchestra’s “Take the A Train.”
Jazz concert at Tivoli Gardens
The next morning, we were thoroughly impressed with the breakfast spread that comes with a stay at the Hotel Absalon (Helgolandsgade 15, 1653 København V). There was an assortment of cereals, fruits, veggies and cheeses but I opted for a couple hardboiled eggs (for protein), fresh baked bread just the way I like it (made with whole grains, a crispy crust and a chewy middle) and a pot of loose-leaf green tea.
The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (Gl Strandvej 13, 3050 Humlebæk) sits strategically and beautifully on the shore of the Øresund Sound in Humlebæk (a 45-minute train ride from the city center). Walking on the grounds of the museum is as much a part of the visitor experience as walking through the galleries inside. We were lucky enough to experience Gleaming Lights of the Souls by Yayoi Kusama before it was temporarily closed (reopening September 17) for the installation of a larger exhibition of the artist’s work. The viewer stands in a darkened room, on a small platform in the middle of a pool of water, surrounded by mirrors and a hundred colorful lights hanging from the ceiling. Gaze out into the mirror before you and you may feel like you’re viewing a nighttime cityscape.
The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (Gl Strandvej 13, 3050 Humlebæk) sits strategically and beautifully on the shore of the Øresund Sound in Humlebæk (a 45-minute train ride from the city center). Walking on the grounds of the museum is as much a part of the visitor experience as walking through the galleries inside. We were lucky enough to experience Gleaming Lights of the Souls by Yayoi Kusama before it was temporarily closed (reopening September 17) for the installation of a larger exhibition of the artist’s work. The viewer stands in a darkened room, on a small platform in the middle of a pool of water, surrounded by mirrors and a hundred colorful lights hanging from the ceiling. Gaze out into the mirror before you and you may feel like you’re viewing a nighttime cityscape.
Yayoi Kusama installation at Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
Back in Copenhagen we went for a modern take on the traditional Danish open-faced sandwich, called smørrebrød. At Almanak (Havnegade 44, 1058 København) we shared three colorful and delicious varieties:
· Juniper smoked salmon from Nordhavn with horseradish & onion flowers
· Soft boiled egg, Rømø shrimps & chicken skin
· Tatar of roe deer, chives mayo, crispy onions & pickled mushrooms
· Juniper smoked salmon from Nordhavn with horseradish & onion flowers
· Soft boiled egg, Rømø shrimps & chicken skin
· Tatar of roe deer, chives mayo, crispy onions & pickled mushrooms
Later, the wine bar we wanted to try was closed, so we ended up back at Torvehallerne Market where we enjoyed a glass of rosé at Mar y Montaña (Nikolajgade 18, 1068 København K) cava bar.
We had been excited for our reservation at Restaurant Bror (Sankt Peders Stræde 24A, 1453 København). It was opened by two Noma sous chefs, of course, and was awarded a Bib Gourmand in Guide Michelin Nordic Cities 2015. Alas, we were too full — from our delicious late lunch — for another tasting menu. Instead, we set off for Bæst for some pizza.
The pizza at Bæst (Guldbergsgade 29, 2200 København N) is now on my list of my favorite pizzas ever. This is from a Brooklyn girl for whom a summer is not complete without a visit (okay, multiple visits) to L&B Spumoni Gardens. (Also on that list is Lucali in Carroll Gardens and Di Fara in Midwood.) The magic was all in the ingredients at Bæst, where almost all the cheeses are made on-site and the wood-fired oven was built in Naples. We arrived not a moment too soon to beat waves of hungry patrons looking for a table. We shared the Bæst burrata, fresh herbs and leeks pie, followed by the nettles, oyster mushroom, Bæst ricotta and crispy pork fat pie. Mind blown.
We had been excited for our reservation at Restaurant Bror (Sankt Peders Stræde 24A, 1453 København). It was opened by two Noma sous chefs, of course, and was awarded a Bib Gourmand in Guide Michelin Nordic Cities 2015. Alas, we were too full — from our delicious late lunch — for another tasting menu. Instead, we set off for Bæst for some pizza.
The pizza at Bæst (Guldbergsgade 29, 2200 København N) is now on my list of my favorite pizzas ever. This is from a Brooklyn girl for whom a summer is not complete without a visit (okay, multiple visits) to L&B Spumoni Gardens. (Also on that list is Lucali in Carroll Gardens and Di Fara in Midwood.) The magic was all in the ingredients at Bæst, where almost all the cheeses are made on-site and the wood-fired oven was built in Naples. We arrived not a moment too soon to beat waves of hungry patrons looking for a table. We shared the Bæst burrata, fresh herbs and leeks pie, followed by the nettles, oyster mushroom, Bæst ricotta and crispy pork fat pie. Mind blown.
Here are a few more images from our trip to Copenhagen, Denmark. Share your thoughts in the comments below!
