When they talk about a “winter wonderland,” I’m pretty sure they’re talking about Vienna.
As a wistful teenager, with a yearning to know what more was “out there” and a desire to travel the world to finally be reunited with places that I’d never actually visited, I had a romantic notion of Vienna as a place where I could sit in opulent cafés, consuming endless amounts of hot chocolate and pastries. Turns out, there was something to that notion.
When my husband and I arrived at the Austrian capital earlier this month, we knew we wanted to visit the famed Christmas markets (Christkindlmärkte) but also expected we’d take in some architecture, some history and maybe even a little opera. However, one step into our first Christkindlmarkt and we knew we didn’t stand a chance against the magic of Vienna’s holiday festivities.
As a wistful teenager, with a yearning to know what more was “out there” and a desire to travel the world to finally be reunited with places that I’d never actually visited, I had a romantic notion of Vienna as a place where I could sit in opulent cafés, consuming endless amounts of hot chocolate and pastries. Turns out, there was something to that notion.
When my husband and I arrived at the Austrian capital earlier this month, we knew we wanted to visit the famed Christmas markets (Christkindlmärkte) but also expected we’d take in some architecture, some history and maybe even a little opera. However, one step into our first Christkindlmarkt and we knew we didn’t stand a chance against the magic of Vienna’s holiday festivities.
So, we spent the weekend walking from market to market, gorging on all kinds of edible treats, taking breaks only to move the party indoors and sample some of the fare at Vienna’s restaurants and cafés. Usually, I try to maintain a sense of balance even while traveling: having sensible breakfasts, that will fuel a long day of site-seeing, and throwing some destination-appropriate exercise in the mix (e.g., kayaking in Seattle). Beyond the health benefits, I find it usually helps me to get the most out of a travel adventure because I feel good. But Vienna was a classic example of how sometimes it’s better to just savor the moment before jumping right back into a more balanced routine.
And with that, I present to you 5 Ways to Eat Your Way through A Winter Wonderland:
(1) Savor traditional Viennese dishes
Café Landtmann (Universitätsring 4, 1010) is a café and restaurant located just across the road from the Rathausplatz Christkindlmarkt (Friedrich-Schmidt-Platz 1, 1010), the largest of Vienna’s Christmas markets, and just next to the Burgtheater, the Austrian National Theatre. Come here for traditional dishes like Viennese prime boiled beef (Tafelspitz) with creamed spinach, sautéed potatoes, chive sauce and apple horseradish or Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal cutlet) with parsley potatoes and leaf salad. Stay for the people watching: Sitting across from us was a woman who had made a grand entrance and had a distinct opera singer vibe going. There’s live piano on Monday, Tuesday and Sunday evenings.
Wiener Schnitzel at Café Landtmann
(2) Sample endless sweets
K. u. K. Hoflieferanten (Kärntner Str. 51, 1010) sells pastries, chocolates, teas and gourmet food items in a colorful and ornate space with a café and sparkling bar upstairs. Pick up chocolate truffles from Schokov (Siebensterngasse 20, 1070) in the 7th district or from Xocolat (Freyung 2, 1010; other locations) in the shopping gallery at Palais Ferstel in the 1st district. The Freyung square, outside the Palais Ferstel, is home to the Old Viennese Christmas Market (Dominikanerbastei 8, 1010), where I tried my first mulled wine. Palais Ferstel is also home to the renowned Café Central (Herrengasse 14, 1010), where we enjoyed the most delicious Apfelstrudel (apple strudel, with cream), washed down with an espresso (also with a dallop of fresh cream) and accompanied by sighs, closed eyes and quotes from Quentin Tarantino’s Inglorious Basterds… “Attendez la crème!” The general consensus is that a visit to Vienna is incomplete without partaking in the Sacher Torte at Café Sacher Wien at the Hotel Sacher (Philharmoniker Str. 4, 1010). I couldn’t embrace the idea of the apricot jam in this famous chocolate cake with chocolate icing, so my husband got to enjoy every last bite in peace.
Apfelstrudel at Café Central
(3) Take a break from the gilded coffeehouse
When you’re ready to break with tradition, you can explore modern day Vienna’s food and drinks scene. Ulrich (Sankt-Ulrichs-Platz 1, 1070) is a casual eatery with a hipster vibe, where the menu features modern twists on traditional dishes and colorful fresh produce plays a starring role. Some of our favorites included the salad of veal escalope pieces, with lamb’s lettuce, sugar snap pea & parsley salad, and cranberry dressing; as well as The Full Monty, which is reminiscent of a Shakshuka, with its baked eggs, tomato & bell pepper ragout, crispy bacon, chimichurri dip & whole grain bread. Jonas Reindl (Währingerstraße 2-4, 1090) is a third wave espresso shop offering national and international guest roasters in addition to its proprietary roast. Come here to break for a latte while planning your next move. At night, head over to If Dogs Run Free (Gumpendorfer Str. 10, 1060), where locals and tourists alike enjoy cask-aged cocktails, friendly mixologists and serious drinks in a casual, darkened setting. The bar at the top of the Sofitel Stephansdom (Praterstraße 1, 1020) offers beautiful views of Vienna and a remarkable backlit ceiling by multimedia artist Pipilotti Rist.
The Full Monty at Ulrich
(4) Dine at one of the world’s best restaurants
Steirereck (Am Heuemarkt 2A/im Stadtpark, A-1030) is currently #15 on the San Pellegrino & Acqua Panna list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. While we couldn’t score a reservation at this farm-to-fork Modern Austrian restaurant, we did get to enjoy lunch at Meierei, the “dairy” located in the same municipal park as the main restaurant. The highlight of a game-centric meal (puff pastry filled with wild hare; warm marinated venison loin with pumpkin & huckleberry) was the pan-fried hare with chervil root, black trumpet mushrooms, kahle, bread dumpling & preserved cox-orange apple.
Hare-filled puff pastry and marinated venison at Meierei
Pan-fried hare and 'Forono' beets at Meierei
(5) Or skip the restaurants entirely – Christkindlmarkt style!
Finally, let’s talk Christkindlmärkte! While the activity at Vienna’s Christmas markets picks up after sunset, a pleasant (read: less crowded) time can be had in the late afternoon. There are so many delicious goodies on offer that you could get away with making your lunch and dinner out of stops at various stalls. Our favorites were at the Divina Art Advent Arts & Crafts Market at Karlsplatz (Millergasse 37/1, 1060), which has areas and activities especially for kids and where you can purchase unique Christmas gifts from local artists. We returned again and again for bratwurst and flatbreads covered in garlic, parsley, cheese & oil, from Bruggraber + Müller. We also loved the super thin & crispy Kartoffelpuffer (potato pancakes) from Alexander Horvath. At the Christmas Village/New Year's Eve Village at the Maria Theresien Platz (Maria Theresa Square, 1010), open through December 31, I tried my first warm, sweet, nutty Baumkuchen, or as I like to call it, “rotisserie cake,” from the Trdelník stand.
Bratwurst from Bruggraber + Müller at Divina Art Advent Arts & Crafts Market
Baumkuchen from Trdelník at the Christmas Village/New Year's Eve Village at the Maria Theresien Platz
Each Christmas market has its own personality and they’re all worth a visit. You’ll soon notice that everyone is walking around carrying colorful mugs of some steamy beverage. Punsch and Glühwein (mulled wine – hot and full of warm spices), are the standard Christmas market beverage. A deposit may be charged, which you get back when (if) you return your cute Christmas mug. We saw many folks walking home with empty mugs. Don’t forget to pick up some handmade Christmas ornaments along the way. Follow the sounds of Christmas carols and live orchestras (bring your glühwein with you), listen while lingering under the twinkling lights and realize “I’m in Vienna at Christmastime!”
- Tip: Do a Google search for a map that includes all of Vienna’s Christmas markets and plan your route!
Quick Guide
- Traditional Viennese
- Café Landtmann (Universitätsring 4, 1010)
- Sweets
- K. u. K. Hoflieferanten (Kärntner Str. 51, 1010)
- Xocolat (Freyung 2, 1010; other locations)
- Café Central (Herrengasse 14, 1010)
- Café Sacher Wien at the Hotel Sacher (Philharmoniker Str. 4, 1010)
- Hipster Vibe
- Ulrich (Sankt-Ulrichs-Platz 1, 1070)
- Jonas Reindl (Währingerstraße 2-4, 1090)
- Cocktails
- If Dogs Run Free (Gumpendorfer Str. 10, 1060)
- Sofitel Stephansdom (Praterstraße 1, 1020)
- Some of the World's Best Dining
- Steirereck (Am Heuemarkt 2A/im Stadtpark, A-1030)
- Chrismas Markets
- Rathausplatz Christkindlmarkt (Friedrich-Schmidt-Platz 1, 1010)
- Old Viennese Christmas Market (Dominikanerbastei 8, 1010)
- Divina Art Advent Arts & Crafts Market at Karlsplatz (Millergasse 37/1, 1060)
